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When assembling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee renowned high-end establishments. But, tucked high among these food titans is a simple salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small restaurant achieving such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.